Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a form of vitamin C that's been modified to be more lipid soluble. This modification allows it to better penetrate the skin. The problem with most topical forms of vitamin C is they're water soluble and can't make it through the lipid-rich skin barrier to reach the dermis of skin where they could have maximal benefits. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is able to successfully penetrate the epidermis and move to the layer underneath called the dermis. It's in the dermis that collagen, a protein that gives skin its youthful firmness and ability to resist wrinkles, is made.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, as a vitamin C derivative, penetrates into the skin and transforms into vitamin C and then plays the role of vitamin C (hence it is also called a vitamin C derivative). It is a colorless to light yellow liquid with good oil solubility and can be widely and quickly dissolved in esters, vegetable oils, ethanol and hydrocarbons (except polyols). At the same time, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is mild and non-irritating, so it can be used for sensitive skin.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate esterifies hydroxyl groups based on the molecular structure of vitamin C (as shown in the figure below). It is the most stable of all vitamin C derivatives. It is very stable under air and light, even if heated at high temperatures. Can maintain stability.
Function:
1 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has excellent transdermal absorption
2 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate can inhibit intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis
3 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate can reduce UV-induced cell/DNA damage
4 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate can prevent lipid peroxidation and skin aging
5 Good solubility of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in common cosmetic oils
6 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has SOD-like activity
7 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is stable to heat and oxidation
8 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate discolors very little
9 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has cell regeneration effect
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